Diagnosing Alternator Problems. Learn how to test an alternator with a Multimeter. Does your car not start, do you have dim headlights or interior lights, does the starter sound weak when start the engine, or does your car die sitting overnight? This video will show you a few ways to test your alternator to see if it is bad, is going bad or is good. A good alternator will show a charge at around 14.2-14.7v while the car is running and under an electrical load it wont drop below 13v.
Here is a great multimeter for under $20: https://amzn.to/3sy10xH
Test your Battery: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COJr7OB23Hw
Check for Parasitic Draw: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5FJDgcdii8
Top 10 Mistakes Car Owners Make: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkn-K2noClw
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix.
Very good video.. I learned a few new things and it was well explained..
I have an interesting one, my reading drops from 14.4 to 14.2 as the rpms go up
This is in a 6.7 power stroke, I’ve never noticed this issue before (have battery voltage on my aftermarket guages)
Would that be a sign my alternator is on its way out?
13.8 – 14.8 spec for most vehicles
Mine went up to 0.33/0.34 when I put the positive and the negative to the Part that has the nut what do I do to fix it?
Great job
Old school. Take a screwdriver and put it behind the alt. If it pulls like a magnet then it’s good. Low to no pull time to get a new one. Just a good test for on the spot little tools on hand
years later and im still using this video for car problems. great video 🙂
HEY C IM JERRY GOOD DAY. MY GIRL GOT HER ALTINATOR BUT IT LOOKS LIKE THE COILS OVER HEAT CAUSE IT GLOWS YELLOW AND SMELLS BURN
thank U good Job
Excellent advice really appreciate the help….. keep up the good work cheers 👍
What if you have a faulty regulator? How would you know?
THANK YOU!
Everything checked out on my 2009 Honda Accord EX-L 3.5L V6 in accordance with your video. Here’s some additional info:
– alternator intermittently makes a whining noise.
– battery is approximately a year old.
– while driving Friday night, the alternator was whining. Drove that way for 4 hours. Check battery light appeared. 5 minutes after that a bunch of dash lights came on and car stalled. Waited an hour, the car started again and I drove 34 miles home. Alternator still whining and the car has started and drove fine since then (still whining though).
– changed out relays and fuses.
Any ideas?
Neg Battery Terminal Loose at .48
Great stuff, I have a charge/battery problem at the moment with my RV start batteries. This post helped me figure out where the problem is
What do you do if your car won't start
Great Detailed Video 💯✅
Video is great
Another useful and informative vid by Mr. Fix. Thank you.
It's easier if you come over and do the same on my car. It's too much for me
Thanks for this video!
If you remove one wire (pick one) from the battery and your car dies (while running), you need a new alternator.
Your negative terminal on battery is loose!
Thanx good to no
What about dashboard, headlights, and daytime running lights and more flickering while the engine is running?
Thank you so much for this tutorial. I was able to figure out the problem with my battery/alternator. I was so close to going to a mechanic. God bless
You might want to tighten up the negative battery cable clamp. Also, fine a better way to connect the negative voltmeter lead to the negative battery post than just jamming the probe through the wire filaments.
do we need to check the current? is that possible the voltage is normal but output current from the alternator is lower than normal?
What if the car doesn't start at all and everything is connected properly?
dude! you're so mellow here! lol…
Great video, Chris
What if it's at 14.00?
Thanks for an elegant, good, informative, clear, uncluttered video. I didn't have to sift through bad comedy or bad music or other gimmicks but just got what I needed. Well done and thanks again.
This very good video. But not sure where the engine block is. I couldn't see because you had your hand in the way
My battery light came on.
I tested the batteries voltage and it had 12.5V when not turned on, and 14.2V when it the car was running.
This light has been on for almost a year. I have never had an issue with the car starting.
So why is my battery light on?