1998 Chrysler Town & Country Suspension Noise & Brake Repair -Fixing it Forward

Here’s another installment of Fixing it Forward. In this episode we solve a nagging suspension noise and also repair the rear brakes. It appears the right rear wheel didn’t have the parking brake connected. I investigate to find out why and make the repair.

If you’re looking for a video on Chrysler/Dodge drum brakes, this is the video for you. As an added bonus, I also replace the front brakes in this video. The rotors had gotten rusty and we decided to replace them with a new set of pads.

We’re getting closer to returning the van to Barbara with each video.

Camera: Brian Kast

Thanks for watching!

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The best place for answers to your automotive questions: http://www.ericthecarguy.com

Special thanks to BuyBrakes.com for suppling the brake parts used in this video: http://www.buybrakes.com

Discussion about this video: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/18-The-EricTheCarGuy-Video-Forum/59190-town-country-suspension-noise-brake-repair#143565

Tools

Zep Penetrating Oil: http://www.zepautomotive.com/product/Penetrating-Lubricant-Spray

90º Pliers: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/performance-tool-w1046-11-90-long-handle-plier#oid=1002_1

10″ Knipex Cutter: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/knipex-7401250-10-high-leverage-diagonal-cutter/#oid=1002_1

8″ Long Nose Pliers: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/knipex-2611200-8-long-nose-pliers-w-cutter/#oid=1002_1

10″ Water Pump Pliers: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/knipex-8701250-10-cobra-pliers/#oid=1002_1

Brake Tools: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/atd-tools-5147-drum-brake-tool-set-7-pc#oid=1002_1

Silicone Paste: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/3m-08946-silicone-paste-8-oz#oid=1002_1

Torque Sticks: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/lock-technology-1500-wheel-torque-socket-set1-2-drive#oid=1002_1

Related videos. (Fixing it Forward)

Introducing Fixing it Forward: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfBnTwpEBu0

1998 Chrysler Town & Country Diagnosis: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WKl6wuvXx60

1998 Chrysler Town & Country Transmission & Radiator Replacement (Part 1): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ra8rnVutsGM

1998 Chrysler Town & Country Rear Window Repair: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUlx41w7L1E

1998 Chrysler Town & Country AC Repair (Part 1) & Headlight Restoration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKQGpmVwkbc

Related Videos

Finding Noises: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mpNRJ7m-c8

Finding Suspension Noises: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scFbb43fwqk

How To Replace Drum Brakes: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCpCkun2qxA

Disc Brake Replacement: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAviOGXzEUk

Useful articles.

Engine overheat: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-do-when-your-engine-overheats

No start problems: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems

Idle issues: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems

Performance issues: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues

Diagnosing Noises: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car

Diagnosing Vibrations: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/determining-the-causes-of-vehicle-vibrations

Electrical Problems: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems

Brake Issues: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems

Transmission issues: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-transmission-problems

HVAC problems: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-hvac-problems

Buying a Used Car: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-look-for-in-a-used-car-purchase

Leaks: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/finding-and-fixing-leaks

MPG: http://ericthecarguy.com/faq/finding-and-fixing-the-causes-of-poor-mpg

Social Network Links

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/EricTheCarGuy?fref=ts

Twitter: https://twitter.com/EricTheCarGuy

Google+: https://plus.google.com/100195180196698058780/posts

Instagram: http://instagram.com/ericthecarguy

Stay Dirty

ETCG

Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

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35 thoughts on “1998 Chrysler Town & Country Suspension Noise & Brake Repair -Fixing it Forward

  1. see my parking brake wont stay engaged. and back in march when i bought the van in 2020 the parking brake worked. now it doesnt. ive tried to do the reverse braking thing but nothing took.

  2. Question on the last Video where you bleed all brakes on on Barbara’s 98 mini, after you replaced the rear wheel cylinders but on the left front you bleed from from the caliper “Banjo nut” why, did I miss a stripped or frozen bleeder? Very help full as I’m working on a 98 twisted/cracked rear brake line and all! Including broken bleeder left front! Thanks Eric…

  3. What's great about recording is no need to take pictures. Video is better also. I can watch your videos hours on end. Thank you .

  4. As with any brake issue New replacement parts will come in a New spring package. One other thing I have always done is use white lithium grease on the bosses. A little blue Loctite on the threads will prevent the nut from backing off. But i stress new replacement parts as old are just that and worn out.

  5. on the drum brakes I found it's Soo much faster and easier to remove the bottom spring or springs and pull the whole mechanism off at the shoes. pull apart the upper and separate it from the wheel cylinder and then proceed with the bottom. be sure to remove the retainer clip and spring first and the whole thing will come apart in one piece in 10 minutes or less I got mine off in 5

  6. Forgot to add: Recheck for rubbing after a test drive to warm the brakes, 1 more click looser at a time. then let the brakes cool a bit.

  7. I just noticed on the front caliper bracket where the pads sit that after you sanded them clean that there was a wear mark from the inner pad that looked pretty deep. I think that might be the cause of the uneven wear on the inner side of the rotor. The pad getting hung up on it and not sliding freely?

  8. As I've watched all of the repairs on this poor old van, I've marveled at the apparently very nice cosmetic condition is masking all sorts of trouble underneath. A good reminder when shopping for a used vehicle; if you're not mechanically savvy, do a pre-purchase inspection with a good mechanic.

  9. +EricTheCarGuy
    I take honors vocational automotive at school my teacher is an ase certified tech he's been in the business all his life, when we do brake jobs, we just use a caliper re tractor but don't open the bleeder valve or the brake like we just allow it to flow back into the master cylinder, thoughts eric? Or opinion?

  10. Why do they use metric size bolts and imperials ones on the same car? That seems kinda daft thing to be doing on same car…
    Hey Eric, thanks for posting links to sites that do worldwide shipping. Means a lot to me since I'm not from US.

  11. As I've learned through movies and previous experience with working on cars, there is ALWAYS time for lubricant and some is good, more is better and too much is just enough.

    Also, why wouldn't you just use a caliper compressor tool? They're nice and easy to use as long as the brake line isn't collapsed inside or the brake bleeder is open and it'd have been MUCH faster than your method.

  12. i have a town and country 99 and driving 20 or 10 minutes suddenly the engine get Off i don´t know why..i turned the key and the engine is power on….but in 2 scenarios the brakers got locked and didn´t work…and i have to select P of parking to stop the caravan..what it could be happening? thank amigo

  13. For the love of god people, ALWAYS use your parking brake! 'P' on the transmission is not designed to hold your vehicle, it's simply the position the transmission needs to be in when you park your car. Eric, if you ever have the opportunity to pull apart an AT and find the parking latch, please show it on a video. If people only knew how flimsy that part is they wouldn't be trusting it to hold their cars anymore. You know how your car normally rocks forward or back a few inches, then bounces a little, when you let off your brakes? That's the little tiny latch bending under all that load. Not good..

    Use your parking brake people 🙂

  14. Eric, I'm being critical here: Adding a nut, bolt, washer to a system that is not required. Also , when adjustingloose drum brakes put two lugs on to hold the drum. Tighten the shoes tight – this centers them, then back off till the drum is free.

  15. I could not find silicone paste anywhere here in UK, I could only find at car parts store red rubber grease for slide pins. High temp and good with rubber, so far hasn't let me down.

  16. FLAME WRENCH on the bleeder !  Propane, not acetylene.  That is the only way I have ever gotten a bleeder over 5 years old lose without breaking,

  17. I usually use a  c clamp and block of wood on caliper piston and force the fluid back up into the reservoir.

  18. Eric I was thinking maybe it's better to us a long 6 sided socket on the bleeder nipple to crack it lose. Wouldnt strip as easily that way. My mechanic friend had  a relly nice special tool for it but I can't find that one to buy so I think I will go with the socket to break it lose next time.

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