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Click here for part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trhJrE1I3kk&feature=youtu.be
Here we have the dramatic conclusion of the Tahoe 5.7L water pump replacement series. There are some important steps here that need to be followed in order to call this job done. Bleeding the cooling system is at the top of that list. As I said in the video I feel this is a job that’s well within the reach of the DIY. So break out the spanners and get to work.
This video can be seen in it’s entirety with bonus footage such as how I dealt with the speed clip that wouldn’t come out as well as the thermostat replacement. You can see this footage by signing up for a Premium Membership at EricTheCarGuy.com. More information can be found here.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/premium-content-streaming-etcg-content
Here are some helpful links mentioned in the video that you may find useful.
Replacing a Serpentine Belt: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wg1AX77xEBQ
Belts and Pulleys: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSTZdTAB_As
Diagnosing an Overheat: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUzOTnsWImI
Bleeding a Cooling System: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjU
Discussion about this video: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/18-The-EricTheCarGuy-Video-Forum/43885-1998-chevy-tahoe-57l-water-pump-replacement#52479
Stay dirty
ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
full gracias
Would the bleeding method be the same for an 88?
THANK YOU I DID IT FIRST TIMER HERE I’ll subscribe
13:00 I like to take a picture with my phone before I take the belt off. It’s an easy way to give me a diagram of how it goes back on.
Does any one know what the stock mechanical fan fan CFM is gor a 98 gmc k1500 ?
Is there a bigger or smaller pulleys to spin water pump faster for a 1998 gmc k1500 for better cooling ?
The green coolant is fine ,just never mix it with GM Dex .It will turn to sap . GM Vortec (R Code) have an intake gasket unlike the(K) , dex-cool at 70% will help with lube it needs to keep from leaking . Best thing is that they leak outward most of the time .
Good job. One bit though. The etc on the threads… Would you be better waiting a day before putting fluids back in?
Thanks for this vid! Love how the gasket starts to slide at 2:31… Might want to let it set up a bit longer and use a bit less spray or maybe put the bolts thru to keep it stationary.
Smart move to remove the idler pulley.
I'm about to do this on a 99 Yukon.
Thank you for a great video and instructions. You helped show and explain things that others do not do to make things understandable and prepare for the unexpected.
Little heater hoses are going by by on my truck.
What do you recommend on using to remove all gasket on the aluminum block
I thought that engine used Dex-cool
I did the same job last night on my 96 Sierra, its really not a hard job and once the clutch fan is out the rest is pretty easy.
Anyone know what type of water pump this is
Anyone know what lubricates the water pump bearing
Its hard to believe you did not replace the bypass hose to the intake or the 90 degree heater hose, those look old and are known to split from heat. A little anti-seize on the clutch threads does wonders to prevent rust. I almost fell over when Eric got out a pipe wrench in part-1
Great video but you mentioned you were going to do the thermostat and that's not in the video
Thanks, very good video.
Excellent information sir! Thank you!
Touching things on the inside of people's cars with oily gloves on is not okay. Not cool sir. But other than that this is a great video. Thank you for the info ðŸ‘Â
Thank you so much for this video! I should be able to change my water pump!
If a semi crack inperfection is on my gasket, should i still use it? Also should i not rtv my gaskets?
Better to use green coolant in these 5.7l Chevy vortec since they like to blow intake gaskets with the dexcool
When doing my own I always paint the new pump the day before, can't stand having a rusty water pump on an otherwise all painted engine. I also would have replaced those heater hoses simply to save having to replace them a year or 2 later when it's harder to do. But for a customer you can't go to the extra time and expense unless the hoses really are bad or they ask you to paint it (and I never had that happen). 😉 Great video Eric, two thumbs up.
why if engine wont start
After doing this my new water pump start leaking again
thanks eric very informative !!!!!!!
seems like 3 ,4 hour job with the tensioner, new belt,coolant flush and new water pump .
this is part where you need three hands
Thanks for sharing. Appreciate your straight forward approach and the clean job.
30 lb ft for the water pump bolts
Very good photography!
Thanks dude loved it
Kinda funny how my truck has same miles, same kinda truck, and my water pump just went
This just helped me change the water pump on my 1997 Yukon. Thanks…
hey Eric I'm doing the same job on a 5.0 305 v8 was woundering if on the bolts to water pump would it material what type of rtv silicone you use I don't have the blue type I have some black and the red high temp rtv would the red be fine for that to use
18 ft lbs for the bolts. Just guessing since thats the torque for my 2000 s10
How is it when you use a rebuilt to a new Water pump when installing on a Chevy small block.