was gunna get the head gasket replaced so we could go make some boost but the install didn’t go as planned. Now we have to wait to get a new set of studs
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yeah as he mentioned, head studs are most commonly yield studs from the factory which means they torque them to a specific rating and then do another 90 degrees of bolt tightening after spec or something along the lines of that, that is why they become unusable because they get weak from the stretching.
That shit went way over 80ft pounds
Hahaha I died when that bolt snapped!!
Blue hylomar sealer is what you want on headgasket and all new studs
Deff isn't arp fault you snapped it. You prob didn't use the torque lube or lube it at all. Or seat the washers in the head I've never seen a head stud snap
I want that haed
Few feelings are like that of a torque that "won't"… Coming from a background in magnesium blocks, I've felt sick more than I like to admit 🙁 Keep wrenching BB's! Cheers.
shouldnt of reused a stretched bolt
What tools you guys used to change the head bolts to B series head bolts? I got an engine that the head bolts in the block were stripped out.
"look at that, it's the most professional lookin thing on my car!"
What is your Engine Block? D15B?
You guys should try to hand tighten the bolts jsut by feel, all the bolts little by little you know how to do it.
head gasket spray is not a good idea on a metal head gasket that has Teflon it will fail when you least expect
were those L19s? or the new version?
I actually thought this was a cool show with cool guys. I was considering subscribing. But then I saw the distinctive mark of the social class.
why say a head is warped when your know nothing about cars for an example if i have all head bolts off and the head moves around from being unbolted and it had water in it yeah the water will leak out that does not mean the head is warped the only way to tell a warped head is to use a straightedge and feeler gauges and if a head is warped 9 times out of 10 the head can be machined and used again
also to make a great seal on any new head gasket you have to have the cleanest of surfaces head and block deck
and you have to run the engine and drive it like normal(not like a dick head and not over rev the engine)
once the head has heated up from normal use and cooled over night or 2 the engine can be hammered on and thrashed
oh and for the tightening the head studs you only need to do them to the factory spec if that does not seal on that then you will have to get steel 3 or 5 layer head gasket and if that fails you will have to get the blocks deck O ringed and use a copper head gasket
some times in some cars even the best o ringed head gaskets will leak but the composite head gaskets don't it a gamble you will have to take haha best of luck
also do not spray anything(copper coat crap) on the new head gaskets they have a special coating to glue the surfaces together by adding shit to it will fuck up the special coating
also if it keeps leaking then you will have to get your blocks deck skimmed as it will be ever so slightly warped
very common on honda alloy engines or engines that have floating cylinder sleeves(no alloy holding the cylinders) cylinder savers will not do much if the cylinders are warped
very common problem on many alloy engines and engines like slowbaru that have 4 surfaces to be machined (2 heads and 2 block surfaces)
these engines can get very expensive to have machined or parts replaced(heads/blocks)
for an example a slowbaru engines over heats and warps the heads cool take heads off and get them machined only to find the block's deck is warped and the heads will leak have the block checked and the machinist tells you the block is too warped that my friend is a wright off of that engine
or you get it all machined and the heads are warped beyond machining that my friend is expensive to track down 2 heads
stop stop stop stop stopppppp! is what i was saying the whole time lolololol dang!
maybe do it right so you dont have issues
You're torque wrench blows that was way ducking more than 80ft more like 200
they can handle 80lbs of torque i have a b series and have torqued them up to 100lbs before but regularly go to 85lbs…
You guys live in colorado?? which city?
I've had this happen before. I don't know what the cause is, but once I realized I was turning way too much, I loosened and started over and the wrench clicked when it was supposed to the second time around.
fuck it, let it burn off.. lololoo
Did you guys get the head resurfaced to smooth it out?
Youtube is still broken this video did not show up in my sub box and notification sigh..
fix the speedometer cable the check engine light will come on for vss also might as well while it's down
starting to wish this channel was a little less ghetto…obviously it's why everything is breaking or already broken. lol
Torque to yield…only use head studs once
Damn watching him righting the stud was so sketchy 😂 amazing vid keep it up!
I feel like your problems originated from using an MLS headgasket. If the head and deck aren't machined to be perfectly flat with a low RA, then you're going to have sealing problems no matter how tight you torque the studs.
Try JE Proseal headgaskets. should work better than cometic under boost.
great vid guys keep them comming
still calling 100k by jan 1st lol
did u dip ur studs in oil first
use honda oem gaskets always
umm quick question for you guys did u guys change ur fuel lines out when u guys went e85? or still using the stock lines? thanks 😀
That SUCKS!!! Sorry bro!!
WOW if it wasn't for your buddy none of what you build would be running with those skills
isn't it usually ideal to have the head skimmed once removed, especially after a blown gasket
+BoostedBoiz check your P.O. Box
Ouch, that sucks, that sickly feeling of the wrench starting to move easier than it should…. then SNAP. FUCKED
uhhh there called stretch bolts for a reason
omg.. that head stud was scaring me so bad. III was basically yelling noooo Charlie!!!
ello
awesome as usual
Shame you learnt the hard way dude.They do need changing every time you take the head off and yes there are called stretch bolts/studs.
ARP
screw off 😀 😀 😀
quick tip for heat wrapping. If you soak the wrap in water it will irritate your skin less and when it drys it will tighten and make for a better fit.
He should look into getting Custom Age 625 studs.
when torqued your supposed to use either arp moly lube or engine oil