In this episode we take the Plan B into the shop to respray the front bumper, improve the mounting of the rocket bunny parts, and then replace the brakes and rotors.
â± Website – http://bisforbuild.com/
â± Shop – http://bisforbuild.com/#shop
â± Patreon – http://www.patreon.com/user?u=3364742
â± Facebook – http://facebook.com/bisforbuild
â± Instagram – http://instagram.com/bisforbuild
Music:
02:13 – Kasger – Reflections
11:10 It's called a caliper anchor… I used to program robots that ground the gates off after they were cast.
So you do know that all your playlists are backwards making it somewhat annoying to chronologically go thru the playlist. Just wanted to bring it to your attention. Cheers
13:20 The little holes in the rotors are for screwing a bolt in that works as a push againts the hub – allowing you to unstuck the rotor in case it rusted to the actual hub – its better solution than hitting the old rotor with massive hammer trying to take that down – part of Japanese great engineering
THOSE holes are for bolts… You tighten a bolt in there to bottom it out on the hub, and push the rotor off of it (separate them). Some other reasons rotors have holes… A bolt that centers the rotor perfectly on the Hub to help balance, and is left in place to do so… Some rear rotors have a plug in them that you pop out in order to adjust the parking brake shoes inside.
Wait? You have or had 2 brzs? Which is which?😂 I remember the one that the qp was all fuckered on where you went to reno but now you have 2?
Really late on this comment. But a few tips and suggestions for you and everyone else.
1 I don't know if you did or didn't but always spray down the rotor with brake clean to remove the oil film or else your brakes will fail on the first time. As well as not get gunk stuck to them.
2 pads need lubrication as well as the guide pin. Not all the time but it is a good idea to place brake lube to surfaces that grind metal on metal. (Obviously not on the side that contacts the rotors. That part must remain dry)
3 the hole is some cars use screws to hold the rotors to the hub. If your car doesn't have a hole in the hub for a screw you don't need one and can also be used to take off any rust welded rotors off the hub.
4 to prevent any rust welding of the rotor to the hub use some anti seize on the hub avoiding any nuts and bolts that should not have anti seize. This will make life much easier in future brake jobs.
5 although not all the time needed invest in a caliper pusher. Or use a C clamp with one of the used pads to push the caliper piston bag. DO NOT USE A HAMMER because you can damage the caliper to the point the whole thing will need replacing.
5 you can also use Anti Seize where the wheel meets the rotor to prevent the wheel from rust welding to the rotor. Again avoid putting any Anti Seize on the bolts. (That is in case the rotor isn't painted in that area and is bare metal.
6 when taking the bolt off the caliper and caliper bracket on the front wheels you can run the steering wheel to give you better access as well as leverage to remove the bolts.
Hope those tips and tricks help you and everyone else. If you are wondering wtf I'm talking about. Look up ChrisFix on YouTube on how he changes brake pads and Rotors and you'll see exactly what I'm talking about.
Sheesh sounds like Ray Charles is drifting all over Oregon
And when you're pushing the pistons, check your brake fluid level to make sure it doesn't leak everywhere and eat your paint in the engine bay
Also, when the slots go toward the centre of the disc and you're hard on the brakes, you take a risk to overheat the hub assembly.
I kind of like the color of the primer, more than the color of the paint.
Those holes in the rotor are to thread bolts into and push the rotor off if it's stuck on the hubs from rust, dirt, etc.
PLEASE READ THIS
After you get done fixing the car or just improving the car, you should test drive the car on camera at the end of the video and show us how it rides.
Subscribing to this channel was a huge mistake. You barely know what you're doing and the reason why you even have a channel is because you have far too much money, not because you have mechanical talent or the kind of charisma to host a program. You don't know how to identify brake hardware, are too lazy to actually research it, and apparently don't know what self-locking rivets do, or look like. Oh, and none of your shit works right. How's the Mustang? Have you finished half-assing that G35 yet? I'm not going to find out why you're dropping a 2JZ motor into this thing, I'm just going to assume you blew the old motor strapping an ebay FI kit onto it. Oh, and it's pretty hard to believe that with all those front-end collusions that those accidents were not your fault.
C clamps work great for pushing the pistons back
pvc paint booth
to compress the caliper, I use a c-clamp and compress it back down.
what size rims are tho
you always need to grease all metal to metal contact on the brakes
I watched all of the "Plan B" videos in the last 3 days, i LOVE this series i can't believe i havent found it before! Seriously this channel is awesome! it makes me want to go out and do some more projects of my own!
like i want a sunroof in my car, why not just cut it up and go for it! lol and if it leaks? nothing some glue cant fix xD
do you fail just for looks? I like it
What wheels are those?