Getting the 240z Body Over the BMW V10 Engine!

Getting the 240z Body Over the BMW V10 Engine!
Getting the 240z Body Over the BMW V10 Engine!

In todays episode we temporarily mount the 240z body to the 240z chassis and make sure everything clears the engine.

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Fareoh – Cloud Ten


Author: avnblogfeed


45 thoughts on “Getting the 240z Body Over the BMW V10 Engine!

  1. The frame sits BELOW the floor pan and about the width you have them at. There should be angled braces connecting from the frame to the shell. Kind of like a ladder. Look under a unibody car to see what I mean.

    Also, the cowl does not really manage water coming off of the windshield. It allows fresh air to enter the HVAC system without allowing water to enter as well.

  2. Frame bars look Chinese imitation like flimsy. Especially when also cutting and lowering them in the middle part.
    Huge forces (500 HP pushing a heavy engine and driver from the back and big brake deceleration), all going through many welded angles on only two thin bars. Really looks like quite a dangerous DIY. Unless the cage adds much rigidity.

    Respect to the Can Do mentality though. I could be very well wrong and over-cautious. Armchair warrior here 🙂

  3. Very impressive, i'm doing almost the exact same thing but with a for capri body instead so I know how much work is going into this. lots of similarities in approach as well, for example buying a roll cage for a standard car then making my own chassis around it.
    Im using a Manual from the M3… bolts straight up to the V10 🙂

    Keep up the good work.

  4. I was thinking it would be cool to see u walk through ur googleing/ problem solving in a video. So we can see all the stuff u work thru, and what u research to figure it all out.

  5. Putting and or building a 240z around a BMW V10 why.this will be an unsellable could get the power with out the weight,and BMW V10 will be a nightmare to get parts for.This seem to me like a more money than brains build.

  6. The amount of play on the end of the tape measure is the same as the width of the metal piece. It make it so you get an accurate measurement by pushing it against something or hooking it on the end

  7. Then on your axle being a race car you'll need ajustable upper control arm,s . Then take the deg of the engine vrs the deg off you axle at the pinion then subtract the two number and see we're your at, ajust your axle so you have an angle between 0 & 5.

  8. Off of the front of your crank harmonic balancer as the car sits level you should have a 5 degree angle in the engine. Then you'll know the drive shaft is at the right angle. 👍

  9. start with the pannel between the hood and the winsheild leave the holes in the fenders that way you could down the road add turbos out the holes in the fenders as they wont effect the engine. It's just between the hood an winsheild that you would need a metal pannel for

  10. Hey Chris, do your original idea of welding off the existing frame rails down and to the side, but make it go a bit lower (the 2" that you need to raise the diff by) and dont weld it to the shell just yet. Then, you lower the shell those 2 inches and then weld to the shell. Dunno if i explained it well enough. Good luck

  11. hi Chris you have already aligned rear and front sub frames height wise if you raise the rear you will loose this alignment. it might be best to lower the engine or tilt it downwards a the rear. the drive flange on the diff looks like it is angled up wards slightly. with the frame rails i would lower them to pick up on the rear most mounting points on the front sub frame. good luck.

  12. You should do some researsch on drive line angle. As far as i am aware a drive line should not be 100% straight because i put much more stress on the U joint bearings. That is because if the U joints dont move or only slighly move the load rests all the time on the same roller of the bearing. But i could be wrong! Please do your own researsch!

  13. Simple fix. Over shoot the rear frame two inches exactly. Then jack up the rear end to fit the two inches when you cut the rear end. And there are 2 Datsun z parts cars here in Pittsburgh PA on CL for 800$

  14. I suggest looking at street bandito they made all there carbonfiber panels so easy its alot more cost effective then an 800dollar hood.
    And this is three layers of real carbon fiber over the entire body.
    Good job working your ass off "alone"

  15. The play on a tape measure should be the same as the thickness of the material used to make the bent over bit on the end, Therefore, if you measure up to something you push in the end and the tape is zeroed, if you hook it over something the end is pulled out and zeros to the material you are measuring. Not having a go, just educating, the unwise.

  16. Literally can't follow any of your explanations for the plans you have for this car. ever. But! happy to be a subscriber and follow along on this journey. Best of luck.

  17. the "play" at the measuring tape's end is by design. When you put the end against a surface, it shortens by the thickness of the end "hook" (usually about 1mm). When you hook something with the end "hook" – the end lengthens by the thickness of the hook. That is why it has play.

  18. There are benches where you can straighten out the chassis. Also the measuring tape should have play because it takes into account the metal part on the end else you would be a off by that much.

  19. You can hang the rear subframe off your engine hoist to move it up. Cut your frame rails vertically anywhere it is level and raise it up 2" inside where you are going to move the frame out to the edge of the rocker panels. then just weld it together with plates on both sides of the frame rail.

  20. Driveshaft alignment: can't you drop a little bit the engine with a slimmer rubber "thing" on the engine mount? I would try to do anything you can on the engine side before thinking how to tackle the alignment "differential side.

  21. So long as your diff pinion angle is the same as your trans output it doesn't matter if it's higher or lower. Having a driveshaft that has zero angles on the uni joints is particularly bad as the uni joints don't move. Then you put all the bearing stress on only a few of the needle bearings in the uni and you'll chew them out pretty quickly. It's the angle that matters not the height difference.

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