In this video I show you how to upgrade from the old Ford single wire starter with the divorced solenoid, to the new Ford starter with the attached solenoid, two different ways.
One way is easy and requires running one small new wire. The other way is a little more involved, but it can completely upgrade your Fords electrical system.
I also go over why this starter upgrade would benefit anyone with an older Ford starter.
I hope this info saves you some time, money, and makes your Ford start better!
Thank you for watching!
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Parts (some may be affiliate links)
Ford starter part number: SA-769-ARM (remanufactured)
I recommend this starter: https://amzn.to/3XwF9Zm
Do NOT get this starter (or similar): https://amzn.to/4dMz9B9
Solenoid extensions (incorrect thread pitch for Ford solenoid): https://amzn.to/4g3vgcN
Power Bus (pair): https://amzn.to/4cThaYH
Alternative to Power bus: https://amzn.to/3z5fiyc
Related Videos
Diagnosing Starter Problems: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKjdnQ0sHQc&t=36s
How To Replace a Starter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xRkFQT9SlJo
How Does a Starter Solenoid Work?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBiSDMPboJ4&t=4s
No Crank, No Start Diagnosis: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrqkhZmDnHQ&t=308s
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Use info from a 96 F150 5.0. There is a long nose starter for Automatics with a Flexplate and a short nose starter for Manuals with a Flywheel. Very important to get the right one. If you bolt an auto starter in with a manual, you'll bind the engine up. And if you bolt a manual start in with an auto, you won't catch the flexplate or just grind the teeth from little contact and ruin a flexplate.
let's see a video on the gen 3 ford alternator conversion from gen 1
Hey Eric, I have a question, I’m in Ohio and I’m not sure if you still have your own shop anymore but I have a 2015 civic LX with a manual transmission that went out and was wondering if you’d be willing to do a rebuild on it. Thank you
I don't agree. Think it should be left alone. Easier to just change the solenoid.
I had no idea you came back. I dropped the sub because nothing was happening. Only reason I remembered you was I was watching "Watch Wes Work" and as he's cleaning out the junk in his shop, he said he understood why Twitter rented buildings and not owned them. Wes said he has sunk 50 grand into his building over the years. I immediately thought of you. That's all well and good not having to maintain someone else's building until that someone cuts your legs off. Resubbed!!!!! Looks like I have a lot of catching up to do.
So I have four Fords and one AMC that use the original solenoid/starter setup. Works fine and in fact made it easy to do two emergency repairs. Emergency when one Autolite clone from Marti froze as the car was started. That was fun and took me under 5 seconds to disconnect. Had an original Autolite that swapped out immediately. The AMC solenoid decided not to work at all one day and in the back of the wagon was an OEM Standard which I swapped out in the store parking lot. Way easier than getting under. However, my Mopar does have the two together, as stock, so fine with that.
Started my journey of learning cars with your videos straight out of high school in 13 and so happy to see you’re still doing well! Thanks for everything!
You're the man Eric
I want to learn troubleshoot automotive electrical system please help me
Thank you Eric always enjoy watching your wonderful videos please post more videos watching from South Africa
I didn't know Eric was back. Great. Always learn something from him.
I like the Ford stock setup that keeps the solenoid further away from heat. If the solenoid goes bad, you don't have to replace the whole starter.
Glad you're on the starter topic.. BIG QUESTION I'm running the stock one and I'm having heat soak issues, I've literally warrantied 3 starters because of the problem. I have shorty headers and I have heat wrapped them. But I've literally ran the starter right out the box for 30 mins and I'm having a hard time starting after it heats up. Battery and alternator have checked out. My next attempt is to throw a heat blanket on the starter. Any ideas on how to solve this issue?
Sorry for the long comment
Wondering if you are going to experience the starter solenoid heat soak issues that the Chevy guys have had to deal with for ever.
and if its the wrong one u just might chip some flywheel teeth
Has something changed over the years? Seems the solenoid was the piece that always went bad on starters. Easier to replace one on the firewall.
The old fords from the 60’s and early 70’s with higher compression used GM starters and with AC even the generators.
I'd not remove the relay… PMGR starter solenoids draw around 42A and the factory starter relay control circuit isn't even remotely rated for that. I've heard of people smoking ignition switches/wiring due to this. The previous owners of my boat did that when they upgraded it to PMGR (marine rated, of course), and it did a number on the ignition switch; I added in a fresh starter solenoid rated relay since the old relay was only good for power distribution and wasn't accessible. Do not use run-of-the-mill Bosch-style relays… even the ones that supposedly will do 40A I've heard of people smoking (since they're likely only good for 30A and the makers are betting on people overbuilding things).
On my 1984 F150 (which is PMGR upgraded), I kept the relay but moved my power distribution to a secondary fuse panel under the hood. I used a new battery cable (Walmart) that runs straight to the starter feed from the positive battery lug, and used said cable's auxillary lead to connect to the fuse panel. The alternator fusible link (which feeds most of the stock circuitry of the truck) and power feed to the starter relay go to the fuse panel positive stud; the EEC-IV fusible link and all aftermarket circuitry (head unit/CB, trailer power, trailer brake) all go to fused/breaker locations on the panel. I also redid my ground at the same time using the same pre-made Walmart cable and ran the aux lead to ground distribution portion of said fuse panel (which is where all my added circuits get ground from plus the stock EEC-IV circuit).
The divorced solenoid. The car part that ends up paying money and losing everything for about 18 years.
Cool I'm in the market for a starter. Video just in time. Thank!
When the starter went out in our ‘89 C3500 I swapped in a gear reduction model from AC Delco, picking one from a later model 454.
The weight savings allowed the MPG to go from 6 to 6.2MPG
In all seriousness … lifting heavy starters into place is never fun. Did that once in February snow in a parking lot some decades ago.
Does the model number of the starter matter if you have a 157 tooth flywheel or a 164 tooth flywheel, or a flexplate vs. a flywheel?
Who remembers using a pair of pliers to jump the terminals to start the car after the solenoid failed?
Hey Eric, could you make a topical video on fuel filters? Is it worth changing at some point?
Miss old times when you upload great videos
Sooooooo your making fords into chevy cars now???? thats why i never went went to chevys all in ones SUCK !!
Eric we miss you on YouTube man, lot's of well wishes for you🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
The external solenoid can be triggered with a screwdriver easier. That could make the older ones easier and faster to steal without the keys
You absolutely rock my friend!!! 😎💯
I did the conversion primarily because I like the sound better, haha. I want to eliminate my fender solenoid too, and I bought a bunch of stuff to do that, including bus bars. I was hesitant to do it though, just because I had never seen it done. So, thanks!
ford Fairmont project car still badass to this day man. some of my favorite videos
On my V8 Ranger swap, I had to pick a starter for mine as well. Wound up going with one that was integrated solenoid, but in addition to that, because it was going into a chassis never designed for a V8, I picked one that was also clockable. Glad I did that as originally as it was set up the solenoid wound up hitting the exhaust manifold, so I did some rotation towards the block a bit to clear the manifold and tuck up under the custom mount plate a bit better. Worked out great, but wasn't cheap ($190ish). Starter cranks the motor though which is all I care about!
Glad to see you posting vids again. There are hacks like this in the BMW world – the 90's starters are lighter, etc. and work great in the 80's cars (in some cases anyway).
@ericthecarguy is another option to leave the original solenoid as is, take the cable that goes to the starter and connect it to the second terminal on the new starter, so that the new solenoid is bypassed and the starter is activated by the old solenoid?
Makes it simple, you still get the benefits of the new starter, oftentimes a solenoid goes out but the starter motor is good, especially with parts nowadays, so its an easy solenoid swap and also easier to jump the solenoid on the side of the road, especially in a tight motor compartment. Am I overlooking something?
I always liked the divorced solenoid also when I just want to bump the motor when working on it, like adjusting valves etc.
Best way to upgrade a ford is to buy a Toyota. Ford had better get a better idea.
The nose cone looks dissimilar. Other than the wiring, plug and play?
My dad owned a starter/alternator rebuild shop for 30 years. Seeing those two really brings back the memories. Does the newer one have permanent magnets? I remember him being so excited about that when it was a new feature. He was a dork about electricity and magnetism, obviously.
Did the conversion to a gear reduction starter 20 years ago on my 1971 Corvette. Used a parts store starter because lifetime warranty sounded good. Well, warranty meant I got a new one when it died but I still had to replace it… 5 times. Had enough of that and put in a Powermaster starter (Made in USA) 7 years ago and it has been flawless. So my tip is avoid parts store starters.
On the other hand I had great luck with a parts store alternator for the same car. Lasted 20 years and when it finally died they gave me a new one under warranty. Not all parts store stuff is bad.
ERIC WE MISSED YOU😊
Legendary Fairmont
That’s amazing that the new starter is smaller and lighter yet it works so much better!
Is this upgrade only possible on the Ford V8’s? 🤔 working on a ‘64-1/2 Mustang with a 200 L6
I think the starter upgrade also not as close to the exhaust headers
I should do this in My 87 XR4Ti. Thanks for the tip.
Was expecting following two options: buy a Toyota or buy a Honda.
Are you ever gonna be back like you used to be? I miss the old etcg
I have done this before but had a miss match. the bite is ring gear count. I had a small 289 type bell housing I did find a starter that worked but do not remember the part number, can you help a guy out do you know that number. thank you.
excellent video thanks Eric 😊
Avoid those cheap economy brands unless it's the only option, or it's a part that's basically impossible to mess up (e.g. a shift knob).
Looking on RockAuto, a Bosch new unit is about $110 USD. Trying to save $20 and compromising quality is not worth the headache.
"Penny wise, dollar foolish"
Nice and clean,